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Showing posts from September, 2012

The Bakiga Window Vol. II: The World at the Border

I think that border crossings in East Africa have a lot in common with central London railway termini. A complete cross-section of society, in reality a miniature society in itself, seems to exist around the sequence of barriers and guards delineating the invisible divide between two nations.
It is Sunday 1st April 2012 and we’re crossing from Gatuna on the Rwandese side of the border, to Katuna on the Ugandan side of the border. The sun is trying to break through the clouds, and is finally beginning to win its battle over darkness.
After the drive from Kigali, the border provides us with our first sighting of bazungu in a few days. My students, seemingly forgetting that they are foreigners here, start pointing and staring at the small group of tourists – they're apparently feeling at home after just a couple of days. 
The bazungu we see look slightly worn out and in need of a wash after travelling on a coach from Kampala. I overhear one of them discussing that they should have t…